Trip 5 Phoenicia NY, Tannersville NY, Woodstock NY 2016.7

Early Fall Scene, Catskill Mts 1888, J. Tubby

Friday 30 September 2016

Soggy but Amazing

So it was this past  Friday, Kim and I headed up to the lovely mountain hamlet of Phoenicia, New York, home of our dear friends, Robert and Holly.  You may remember we were at the North Carolina Coast with them a scant 2 months ago (see previous post).  Among the many lovely things they have done for us was our wedding present:  a stay at the fantastic Phoenicia Lodge.  We have endeavored to use our great gift essentially since we got married a year ago June and the stars finally aligned and schedules were adjusted to allow us to go.

Of course, I taught all day Friday and then jetted home to throw a few things in a bag, pack up the Golf and point it north.

The trusty steed:  VW Golf:  Conveyance through the 1500, 1700 and almost 500 mile journeys this  year

The weather turned very moist about Wednesday night and the rain soaked atmosphere lingered over the Philadelphia area clear through today (which is Monday already).  The drive up through New Jersey and then Southern New York alternated between medium to light rain and mist the entire trip.  It's about 192 miles door to door but the trip from our house to the beginning of the the New York State Thruway (Interstate 87) is fraught with stop lights and heavily traveled US 202.  So, 5pm rush hour, rain and 192 miles.  It's a good thing we love each other!  All things being equal, it should have taken us about 3.5 hours without stops.  Of course, we stop some and we were traveling across dinner time.  We stopped in the farthest reach of Northern New Jersey at a Moe's Southwest grill and had forgettable tacos.  Sustenance was achieved.

We pulled in to the Phoenicia Lodge on NY Route 28 about 10 minutes after 10.  A very long day for both of us.  The Lodge though was just what we needed.  Rustic but not spartan, roomy and quiet.  Our friends had affected an upgrade for us so instead of 2 double beds, we had a slightly larger "cabin" with a nice Queen bed.  The Proprietors are great friends of our friends and thoughtfully taped a small, excellent map along with the key, to the window of the closed office.  You can't do things like that in the city but Phoenicia is kind of remote.  It was dark, rainy and about 55 degrees so, a little raw.  Again, I was pretty exhausted but I will say that as I opened the door, the smell of cedar and dampness revived me considerably.  It was the smell of canoe paddles and wicker creels,  old snowshoes and mildewy playing cards, muddy boots and granola.  In short, it smelled like camp

Since we know our olfactory sense is the one most tightly connected with memory, you can imagine the backflips my brain was doing when that smell hit me.

Totally spent after the day we'd both had, we fell into a well deserved slumber.

Saturday 1 October 2016

One for the books

The first of October dawned deeply overcast, 50 degrees but with no actual precipitation falling.

Our intent had been to take long drive up and around the lower Catskills for some early leaf peeping. The Smokymountains.com 2016 Fall Foliage map, upper Ulster County NY was supposed to be "near peak" on 30 September.  The Red, Sugar, Silver and Mountain Maples were mostly tardy at Phoenicia's elevation of only 827 feet above sea level and had not gotten the memo.  Up on the nearby mountains, I suspected the Maples and Sweetgums, Hornbeams, Sycamores and all their deciduous pals must have already started to go over.  Why did I not know for sure?  The cloud ceiling was so low, that we could easily see the edges about 4-500 feet up the slopes.  The cloud cover was also quite thick as even at around noon, no shadows could be seen.

There had also been a somewhat unconfirmed possible lunch with one of Kim's oldest dearest friends in Woodstock NY which is only about 14 miles away.  My loose plan had been to head up 214 and 296 to historic Route 23 and loop around to Woodstock.  We headed to the amazing Phoenicia Diner for a very filling, delicious and locally sourced breakfast.  Sated, and it being Saturday, we headed over to the the old church right in Phoenicia to check in with Holly at her Saturday morning volunteer job at the basement flea market/thrift store.  After a catch up with Holly in the clothes isle, we got a tip that there was a wickedly winding road not far away up on the side of Katerskill Mountain.  Since we wanted to be in Woodstock around 1pm, I jettisoned the Route 23 plan and instead we headed for the challenging road.  Along our way, plans firmed up and we were indeed to meet Joan and Brian at 1pm in Woodstock.  A helpful local as well as Holly, helped us identify landmarks to the entrance to the locally famous drive.

We headed up 214 about 1130am and passed through the tiny mountain towns of Chichester and Lanesville before arriving in Tannersville.  We didn't realize it but we'd already passed the turnoff for Route 16, also known as Platt-Cove Road.  When eventually we found it, it did not disappoint.  On the Hunter side of the mountain, again, the cloud ceiling was low and a soaking, misty rain was falling constantly.  As we descended into the gorge, the weather on the other side of the mountain was quite a bit better.  At one point, we rounded a bend and had somewhat of a vista looking southeast and we could see for about 3 or 4 miles.  Also, it wasn't raining or misting on that side.  Amazing.

Platt-Cove road is not for the faint of heart driver.  It is barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass, barely, barely,  It is also filled with very tight switchbacks and very steep inclines.  I stopped at one point to snap a few pictures and walking back downhill 20 feet, I had to lean back a bit, so steep was the pitch of the road.  All told it was about a 15 minute drive and I imagine on a clear day, the views are spectacular as well.  Again, Mother Nature prevented us from seeing too far.  My suspicion about the higher elevation trees being farther along their yearly cycle was correct.  Up on the mountain, I would describe the foliage as "partial".  Down in the valleys and along the Esopus Creek, it was patchy at best.

Platt-Cove let us out right at route 33 and then 35 and right into Woodstock.

Platt-Cove Road view #1

Platt-Cove Road view #2

Once in Woodstock, we had about an hour to kill before lunch so we wandered around.  Once we started our descent into the gorge, my phone buzzed with a text.  Once we alit in Woodstock I looked at it and lo and behold it was a possible gig for Kim's band, Hank's Cadillac.  It turns out, it is happening!  We are playing a pre-show member party for WXPN ahead of the sold out Sturgill Simpson show this coming Friday.  Thank you Mole Street Productions!  This might prove to be an important gig as well as a fairly high profile and high visibility gig.  We will see.

As I eye-shopped in the music store, Kim began exploring what it would mean to change a flight.   She left early this morning for a week in Los Angeles.  It took some doing but, she's on the red eye early Friday morning and will get back in plenty of time to make the hit.

One other kind of amazing thing about the area of the Catskills near Phoenicia is that there are no cell towers close enough to get a phone signal.  It was only as we neared Woodstock that my phone woke up.  This figures in that alerting the band and doing anything online (the wifi is sketchy at best also), proved challenging.   Wrangling the details of this gig was background noise the rest of the trip but it was necessary of course.

About 1pm, we met up with Joan and Brian at the Landau Grill right on the main drag of Woodstock.  It was decent and sustaining but of course the main event was spending time with Joan and Brian,  Kim and Joan have been pals since the 1980s radio days and she now lives in Southwest Massachusetts.  She is still on the air, as is Brian occasionally.  Jealous am I.

After lots of great conversation, we strolled to the small flea market, Kim got a coffee and we bummed around the excellent bookstore.  It was past 4 when Kim and I headed west toward the Lodge for a quick respite and refit before meeting Holly at the small art gallery in Phoenicia for a Shandaken Democratic Party fundraiser at which Robert was playing a set of 1960s music.  It was a 1960s theme party after all.  Robert turned in a fantastic set of tunes, carefully and lovingly recast for voice and acoustic guitar.  It is, most of the time, difficult if not impossible to maintain the bones and heart of many tunes when stripped down to their most basic elements of melody, harmony and rhythm.  It takes a bit of doing to preserve the emotional content of tunes of that era when you only have your voice and six strings.  A true musician can do though and that is what we witnessed.  It was very, VERY well done.  The audience were all our age or older and I wondered at breakfast the next morning where all the young people were?  After Robert's blazing set, a candidate for Probate Judge got up and told us who she was, what she intended to do if elected and asked for ur support.  It was a little thrilling to see local politics so close up.  She seemed perfectly capable and willing and if I lived there, she'd get my vote.

Lovlies!  Kim & Joan

A late fall bloom in Woodstock

A sign only seen in Woodstock

Robert making musical magic for the Dems

After her brief speech, Holly, Kim and headed out to a fantastic dinner up the road a ways to Big Indian NY and Peekamoose.  Oh my was the food amazing!  The restaurant is also quite impressive and large.  Lots of natural elements inside, tree root chandeliers, taxidermy, exposed wood etc.  Quite impressive.  Our main courses were all creative, locally sourced and delectable.  Our waitperson was on old friend of Robert and Holly's whom Kim and I had met on an earlier visit there.  Again, catching up with friends and chatting about everything under the sun; kids away at school, politics, music, East Germany....you name it.  The desert course was one for the ages.  We all got a different one, but next week is Holly's birthday and so, a giant sparkler was brought out and sining erupted and two extra desserts showed up (so we could try them all!).  Amy was quite and excellent guide through the meal.

We snapped a shot outside all dressed up for the 1960s party and then sped down Route 28 to the lodge.

It was a fairly epic day with meals with dear, dear friends, hair-raising driving, wet leaves about to change, local politics at work and love, love love all around.

Sunday 2 October 2016

A melancholy anniversary, a picking party and homeward bound

The morning dawned dry but still quite overcast.  We packed up and checked out, finally meeting the Lodge owner and chatting him up a bit.  We once again headed over to the Phoenicia Diner to meet Robert and Holly.  Once again, a memorable meal with delicious food and delicious conversation.  

Post breakfast we followed our friends home and an impromptu jam session-picking party broke out on the porch.  It was cloudy still but not raining although even at 1 in the afternoon, it was only 60 degrees.  We played through a bunch of tunes we all love, Robert hammering out the leads on his Martin D28, me decorating and adding rhythm my EL00 and Kim adding beautiful harmony to everything.  Now THAT is how you spend a Sunday afternoon in Phoenicia!

It being a sad double anniversary for my lovely wife regarding her parents, the bon homie, fellowship and musical distraction were welcome I think.

After our goodbyes, we headed South in hopes of making home not too late AND finding an apple cider donut.  Alas, at two places we stopped, there were out by 130pm and we didn't see anywhere on the rest of our way home that might have been a likely spot to have them. 

We stopped North of Flemington NJ at Porkchops BBQ for dinner.  It was decent and I give them a B-.  It was interesting note however that this place was actually the International House of BBQ.  Asian and Hispanic counter and chef personnel, South American sodas and unusual flavors of drinks in the cooler and the special was Hawaiin Beef BBQ.  Still, the main menu was pure Southern US.  What a melting pot Flemington must be?

All told, Phoenicia and back with side trips to Tannersville and Woodstock, it was 474 more miles added to this years total driving miles.

A lovely way to spend an early fall weekend; friends, food, fellowship and love,  Lots of love, all around.

474 Love, love, love

Trip 4 92nd St NYC / Hawthorne NY / Mountainville NY / Mansfield MA / Woonsocket RI 2016.6

Friday 26 August 2016

As if I need and excuse to travel!
My old friend from High School John, was having a big number birthday party on Saturday the 27th in his backyard.  Now, I certainly didn't want to miss that.  Never mind that I had put in 4 in-service days already at school or, that come Monday, it'd be the first day of school.
I was going and that was that.

In an attempt to make the most of my journey North this time, I made a few stops along the way.
I headed out about 11am in order to meet my friend and former Professor for a brief catch-up but also to deliver a set of cymbals he had purchased but that I had picked up for him.  What was meant to be a half hour hang turned into 2 hours of catching up.  It was pretty great actually and I got to see a real NYC apartment!  I would up headed back out about 4:45.

Next stop was my old pals Ivan and Elizabeth who now live in Hawthorne NY.  I'd never been there so it took a little doing to find it.  Also, they had theatre tickets for 6pm so our visit was shorter than we would have liked.  Still, it was lovely to see them both and I do miss them terribly.  Terribly....

It was a beautiful late August evening as I once again pointed the Redbaru North towards Mountainville NY.  I imagine the stretch of the Hudson Valley I drove through is stunningly gorgeous at any time of the year but oh my was it pretty then.  Mountains falling into the river, curvy roads, cliffs, trees, vistas.  Pretty amazing.  No wonder there as an Art movement based there.  I swear the light was even different.  Maybe that was it?

So once upon a time about 1996 or so, I met Shane Petit and he became the first longtime Tuba player in my band, the Hoppin' John Orchestra.  At some point, I don't remember when but maybe 3 or so years in, Brother Shane decided to serve his country and join the Army.  He became a Bandsman but took to the repair bench like a duck to water.  Now, all these years later, young Shane has a wife and son and 3 up and 3 down.  A Master Sergeant.  I'm very proud of him.
Even though we chat occasionally via Facebook and email, I hadn't laid eyes on him in years.  He lives very near West Point where he is now stationed on the side of Shunnemunk Mountain.  His house is on a bucolic stretch of country road and he was kind enough to let me crash in his guest room that night.  We headed out to The Hop in Beacon for burgers and craft brews.  It was just what was needed after a long day of driving.  It was really fantastic to catch up with Shane.  He has done very well for himself and had many adventures since last we saw each other.
He remains a lifelong friend and righteous dude!

The view from Shane's porch over a cup of Joe

The Black Eyed Peas Brass Band 1996....that's Shane on the right!

As if seeing, Lewis, Ivan, Elizabeth and Shane were not enough, the next morning, over breakfast, Shane and were to met up with a long-lost Brother-from-another-Mother,  My old partner in shenanigans, the great Douglas Richard.  Now I have said before that the older one gets, the less likely it is that one will meet someone the lies of whom they've never encountered before.
1997, when I met Douglas, was one of those rare times.  I still don't know anyone quite like him.

Douglas and I met while we were both in the 307th Army Band.  We were both prior active duty and both in special units.  We were also both writers and arrangers and both had/have over developed, twisted and dark senses of humor.  We are both longtime professional performers.  We were also both High School Band Directors at the time.
We became pals right off.
After a few years back in the civilian world, Douglas retuned to active duty, this time as a staff arranger.  I'm not sure when he got to the West Point Band but I do know that when he and Shane figured out they were both friends of mine, that must have been quite a conversation!  Douglas also helped me get on my feet with my Marching Band my first year in many ways.  I am eternally grateful!  You can imagine how excited I was to have a few minutes with my old pal!

Saturday August 27th 2016

When I say to you that he is almost exactly the same, I am not kidding.  19 years later and it was like we had just seen each other.  Over breakfast, the three of us old pals caught up and talked about all manner of things.  I can't adequately describe how I felt sitting at a table and talking with two very dear, longtime friends whom I had not seen in years.  Both stationed at West Point, (Shane is in Douglas' section!), both fantastic musicians, both very senior NCOs.  I am 90% certain that if I had stayed in the Army, I would have "jumped the fence" and gone "green to gold" and become an Officer or at least a Warrant Officer.  There was much talk and encouragement of just that at my last duty station before I got out.  In fact, in an effort to entice me to stay, my First Sergeant secretly pulled a whole submission packet for OCS together for me and gave it me at my going away party.
I don't think I could have stuck it out through ANOC and whatever it is one has to to to become a Sergeant Major.
Both of those fine gentlemen did all that and more.
Much, much respect to my old friends.

(Also, Douglas is looking to retire come February and I wanted to see him before he returned to "the land of the pogues.")

Also of note, on the drive from Shane's to the diner, we passed the Moodna Viaduct scenic railroad trestle which Shane helpfully pointed out to me.  How incredible that you can be in the Army and be stationed somewhere as beautiful as West Point?  Also, apparently, passenger trains still regularly use that.  Imagine if you will, your commute to NYC every day crosses that marvel of engineering.  I don't rightly know how bad your day could actually be after that.

After morning chow, we said our goodbyes in the parking lot and affirmed that we would endeavor not to let so much time pass before we hung out again!
Once more, I headed further North.

My target this day was my ostensible reason for the trip:  My old High School pal John's big birthday party.  I found a decent, fairly inexpensive hotel in Woonsocket R.I., drove up there, checked in, chilled out for 30 minutes, changed clothes and headed up I 95 to Mansfield MA, only 20 minutes away.

It was a beautiful day for a party.
The pig smoker trailer was there chuffing away, the sides were being uncovered, the beer was getting cold and all manner of John's local friends were arriving to wish the Birthday Boy the best.  I didn't get to meet too many of them but those I did meet were nice enough for New Englanders.  One really delightful surprise was to see John's cousin Mary, with whom we had graduated so long ago.  We were all in the amazing early 80s Williamsport Marching Millionaires for all three years of High School.   She's been in the Navy since college and is about to retire within the year I think.  Amazing.  We had a nice chat and caught up.  I got to talk to John two or three times but as the belle of the ball, he was busy hosting most of the time.  The party was called for 3pm and I got there pretty much on time but after three or so hours of hanging around and chatting and eating BBQ and sides and sipping IPAs and soaking it in, it was time to head back to R.I to sleep.  I said my goodbyes to John and Pam and his lovely daughters and Mary and her daughter and literally drove away into the sunset.
Notably, not far from John's house is a beautiful lake.  The sun was setting on the lake as I went by and I stopped to take a shot.  It was a beautiful way to end an amazing  day.

Nice invite!

Party time!

Smoker smoking

Mary, her daughter and yours truly!

The Party gang and the party boy!

Greenwood Lake ISO 6400 f/8 1/20th

Greenwood Lake ISO 6400 f/5.6 1/250th

Sunday 28 August 2016

I headed out from Woonsocket about 7am and made it back home in very good time.  I even crossed the George Washington Bridge uneventfully.
I got home at a decent hour and was able to chill out and get my head right for the next day; the start of Year 20 at the High School for me. (sigh)

It was a very, very worthwhile 3 day trip to catch up and maintain some dear, dear friendships.
I am so very glad I went!

686 miles, 3 days

Monday 29 August 2016

29 August 2016  First day of School, year 20 (the morning after the trip!)

Trip 3 Richmond/Charlotte/Concord/Kannapolis/Kure Beach/Wilmington 2016.5

3 August 2016 

Kim and I headed South once again.
This time, to see a little more of my family, visit with our excellent friends Maria, Dan and Noah in Charlotte and eventually wind up at my childhood beach on the southern coast of North Carolina.  The ultimate destination was good old Webster Cottage In Kure Beach (also known as Kure Cottage), for a blissful week with our amazing friends from Phonecia, New York; Robert, Holly and Jack (and Jack's Mom Mary and Holly's brother Owen and his son).  Quite a trip and quite a crew.

One our way down, as mentioned in a previous post, we have, for several years now, stopped at Kuba Kuba.  Our absolute favorite Cuban restaurant outside Havanah.  This trip, we determined to mix it up and seek the best fried chicken we could find.  Well, find it we did.  Mucho recommendation-o for Lee's Fried Chicken in Richmond, Virginia.  Hot, crispy, tasty, not-greasy, excellent sides.  Totally worth the side trip to the other side of Richmond from the Interstate.

Aw yeah, Fried Chicken goodness!

Sated, we sallied forth and eventually made it to Charlotte in the early evening.  Our friends have let us stay with them 4 or 5 times over the last few years and it is without a doubt, the nicest, sweetest gesture from some of the finest people I know.  Charlotte is a great in-between location as my kinfolk are spread out between Gastonia, Kannapolis and Monroe, N.C.

We caught up with our pals and marveled at their newly renovated kitchen and beautiful new floors.  Also of note; very nearby we found a delicious French Cafe, Amelie's, with all manner of homemade baked goodness and very strong, very tasty coffee.  We availed ourselves every morning we were there.

Om nom nom Amelie Cafe, Charlotte NC

4 August 2016 

This fine, hot, southern day found us visiting my sister at her longtime employer, Nicks Veterinary Hospital.  We hung out with the dogs and cats and caught up with Kathy.  It was pretty sweet to see her in her element.  To say she was born to this work would just about be accurate!

Cuties!

That evening, we stepped out to Ilios Noche, a Spanish style-mediterranean fusion restaurant that was completely out of this world delicious.  We all had amazing Tapas style appetizers that would have sufficed for the meal but alas, more food to come!  It was truly memorable.  The Baclava Sundae was incredible and worth the trip there by itself.  In fact, it was so scrumptious, Kim needed two forks....

Ilios Noche Crew

One of the greatest desserts ever!  The Baclava Sundae!

5 August 2016 

It was off to Kannapolis see Grandpa for the second time last summer.  It was a lovely visit and we caught up on all kinds of things and as always, many, many stories!  We are all amazingly blessed that at 93 years old, he still remembers details from his early 20s.

1966 and 1923..Not bad in 2016!

That evening we discovered a vintage ice cream parlor/soda shop with homemade Peach Cobbler and Kim and I enjoyed it immensely with Kathy, Daniel and Kylie.  Pike's Drugstore was a piedmont staple when I grew up but now, it's a seriously vintage Soda shop in Charlotte.  I am glad all the furniture, cabinets, counters and accouterments survived and being lovingly preserved for all to see while they sip their milkshakes.  Also note, the Charlotte Light Rail system is a thing and there was a stop right across the street.  A promising sign for the future.

Peach Cobbler at Pike's

7 August 2016

Saturday the 6th was a travel day as we said goodbye for now to our friends and headed east on the new Interstate 74.  During that day, we passed right by the Hotel at which we had stayed a few weeks prior when headed North.  We arrived at Carolina Beach in the early afternoon and set about getting the keys as our friends had other commitments (Son Jack was in a play), and would be joining us very late on Sunday night/Early Monday morning.  As luck would have it, there was an ABC store directly across the street from the Realty office so we ducked in for liquid libations and then headed South across the Snow's Cut bridge to Carolina Beach proper and then a little further South still to good old Kure Beach.  I have actually been going to that beach since before I was even 1 year old.  It was my childhood beach from 1966 to 1978.  I returned again in 1990 for a few nights and then, through a serious of too-amazing-to-be-believed coincidences, returned again in the summer of 2012. It was that trip that allowed me to reclaim that peaceful, unfussy, beautiful stretch of Atlantic coastline for my adult self.  We returned again in 2014 and then again this past summer.  I'd go every summer if could and who knows, maybe I will?

We ventured down to the sand with our new cabana, (purchased for the threat of rain at my epic birthday party back in May), and a better 60$ I don't know if I've ever spent.  We used it every day we were there and having ample shade meant I could hang on the beach for hours.  I never do that.  Now I can!  It was a lovely afternoon!

That evening, Kim and I headed to Carolina Beach and tucked into some truly remarkable Low Country Boil at the Shuckin Shack.  That, with a local IPA and a day of driving, we slept well!

Low Country Boil at the Shuckin Shack

Kim and I Kure Beach summer 2016

Mom and I Kure Beach 1967

9 August 2016

Monday the 8th was a whirlwind of Parents, friends and family members descending on Kure Cottage with the requisite catching up, chatting, cocktails, laughter, food and good cheer.  

I love those guys; I really do.  

On Tuesday, we traipsed back down to the sand for a serious beach day with our friends.  The water was warm and inviting and the koozies really kept the beer cold!  Between the cold beverages, shade, salt spray, great conversation and general well-being, we wound up down there for over 4 hours. For certain, a record for me!  Later after dinner, some of us fed the seagulls the shrimp shells.

BFFs!

My office for the day....

Feeding the birds....

10 August 2016

Another amazing day at the beach!  As great as it had been and considering how restless I tend to get,  I headed out to the border with South Carolina to stock up on fireworks.  It was about an 80 minute drive one way as I swung up though Wilmington and then South on the great east coast highway, the storied US 17.  I passed through the tiny hamlets of Supply and Grissetown N.C. before just barely crossing the border near Shallote and Carolina Shores and into Little River.  My destination was State Line Fireworks.  It was a Wednesday morning about 1030 am and myself and the proprietor were the only people in the place.  I stocked up for myself and my pal Paul and his 2 sons and then pointed the Golf north again towards Kure Cottage.  On the way back, I stopped off to see my old teaching buddy Ellen Irish!  Imagine my surprise when in response to one of my elegiac Facebook posts about our time at Kure Beach, she messaged me to say that she and her husband had relocated to Wilmington,  Just across the Snow's Cut Bridge from Carolina Beach!  Their house is beautiful and we spent a lovely hour and a half snacking and sipping wine (that Rich bottles himself!) and catching up on all kinds of things.  If that is what retirement looks like, I can't wait!!!

While I was gone, there was lot of parallel play and a trip to the store for the evening's libations.

It turned out to be among the most beautiful beach evenings while we were there.  

The temps hung in the lower 80s and the humidity dropped a few millibars.  The ladies fixed up their own Low Country Boil with about 2 pounds of fresh-caught shrimp and mid-summer sweet corn, red-skin new potatoes, andoullie sausage and all the fixin's.  We felt like kings and queens!  We had also purchased our very own bottle of Corralejo Tequila and the margaritas went as down smoothly as the sunset which we watched from the porch as we ate.  It was a memorable tableau.

Some time after our dinners had settled and the sun had gone down, Kim, Robert, Holly and I ventured out to Vinny's Place in Carolina Beach for Wednesday night Karaoke.  Kim and Robert wowed the crowd as professionals are wont to do.  Kim was tickled pink that 90% of the tunes the amateurs chose were country tunes or country-flavored tunes.  "We're in the South!  It's Country Karaoke!"  (said with a 1,000 Watt smile across her face.

Again, what an amazing day....

The view from in front of the cottage.

Food Porn

Behold, Low Country Boil!

Amazing voice, 1000 watt smile....

11 August 2016

More beach time this day, but later in the afternoon.  Kim and I headed into Wilmington to explore and have some lunch.  What a beautiful smallish town it is these days.  We walked around downtown and saw the sights, got some coffee and found a Music Store/Jewelry Store to poke around in.  The store was almost 100 years old and had been selling musical instruments and diamonds since it's inception. Finkelstein's was amazing.

Eventually, we found Bourbon Street, a New Orleans themed restaurant right downtown.  It was just what we need and the Po Boy was delicious as was the hyper-local (right down the street) IPA.  Sated again, we headed back to Kure Cottage for beach time and our last night at the coast.  We had to drive back on Friday as my band, The Hoppin John Orchestra had scored a cherry gig at the 2016 Bethlehem MusikFest.  Two sold out houses for both sets and 4 CDs sold.  A great night, by the way!

After getting back we were amazed but not surprised to see Special Ops soldiers practicing water landings with their -1 Charlies. Maybe that's what they still use?  That's what we had back in the 1990s!  Several passes by a Blackhawk at about 1000-1200 feet and 10-12 canopies were drifting toward the warm water off of Kure Beach.   i could just make out a couple of Zodiacs picking up the soggy soldiers.  Considering that Fort Bragg is close by and the big Marine base at Camp Lejune is just up the coast, I speculated that those troopers could have been any one of several Special Ops units on a training mission.  The chopper was too far away to make any markings and they would have been subdued anyway.  I suppose it is natural for my mind to take me back to those days in the early, mid and late 1990s when I wore a uniform most days.  It was cool to see and to share what I could of my experience with my wife and friends.

Special Ops troops about to get wet

Once back at the cottage, we whiled away our last night with stories and songs (Robert and I both brought our guitars), more tequila and more snacks.  Across the week with Robert, Holly, Jack, Mary and Owen, there was much talk of Jack's impending move to college.  He seemed excited but a little apprehensive as is to be expected.  Also, the 2016 Summer Olympics were on TV and we did watch a few games.  The Women's Volleyball finals engendered some discussion of the efficacy of various Olympic sporting uniforms.

Later, we went down the beach one more time to look at my stargazing app AND shoot off some of the fantastic fireworks.

A lovely evening with the crew, again.

The Kure Krew 2016

Bourbon Street, Wilmington

12 August 2016

We left fairly early as we decided to take the scenic route home.  Stopping by Britt's Donuts in Carolina Beach and Wake N Bake Donut shop for coffee, we headed north on US 17 and traveled through the most historic part of the Old North State.  

A word about Britt's Donuts.

They are, without a doubt, some of the best, hottest, tastiest, old-school style donuts I've ever had.  They are in the top three types I've ever encountered.  The other two were: a farm stand/restaurant on US 7 in far northeast Massachuesetts just south of the Vermont border on a freezing cold December afternoon the week after Christmas about 1998 and....a greasy, steaming hot bag of mini donuts made by the Boy Scouts at the Durham Fair in Durham Connecticut in the fall of 2009.  IF you're ever in Carolina Beach during the day (especially in the morning), stop by Britt's.  There is usually a line but it moves quickly and is completely worth the wait.

We made our way up the coastal plain of North Carolina and then into the Norfolk/Hampton Roads area before our beautiful journey across the  Chesapeake Bay-Bridge Tunnel.   During this part of the trip, we passed through historic hamlet after historic hamlet.  We also passed fairly close to Chowan University, longtime employer of one of Mom's dearest and oldest friends, Dr. Robert Mulder.  It made me  think about those two a fair amount as we passed by.  

Also along the way near Elizabeth City, we saw a number of giant windmills in a long, low cut running northwest to southeast toward the coast.  You could see from the lay of the land that wind could travel uninhibited for miles in each direction.  No trees, buildings or land masses in the way.

It is at least true for me that the journey, and the things one sees and the people one meets and the experiences one has, are sometimes, even more meaningful, memorable and amazing than the destination.  That is why to take the ling way home, the scenic route, the road less traveled.

In search of Virginia BBQ, we found Megallons Gourmet Barbecue very near the Joint Base Little Creek, home of military musicians for generations.   We sat at the bar and chowed down,  It was unusual in that it was chopped and came pre-sauced.  Reviews were mixed.

Next up we passed through, over and under the wonder of the world that is the Chesapeake Bay-Bridge Tunnel.  It was maybe the 4th time I've ever had the pleasure.  It is breathtakingly beautiful and a marvel of engineering.  On the other side, we sought out some coffee and and after some confusing directions, eventually found enough caffeine to get us home.

Little Creek BBQ

All told, it was a remarkable 11 day trip: Family, friends, sunshine, tequila, historic sights, engineering marvels, low country boil, songs and stories.  The fact that it was with the best traveling companion/copilot ever made it ever so much more enjoyable, easy and beautiful.  Thank you to my intrepid wife!

11 days, 1345 miles - side trips to Kannapolis NC and Little River SC not shown.  Those two added 212 miles round trip to both for a total of 1557 miles driven.  Road trip baby!

1557 Miles 8/3 - 8/12 2016

Trip 2 Chattanooga/Newnan/South of the Border/Baltimore 2016.4

Day 1 Friday 21 July 2016            

            And so it was at about 0700 on July 21st 2016, my intrepid super-daughter and I pointed the Subaru west and headed out on my second travel adventure of the summer.  Our eventual destination was beautiful Chattanooga, Tennessee, site of our 2016 Clanton Family Reunion.  It came to pass, that I found out that fantastic trad-style, New Orleans Band, Tuba Skinny, was playing a small show in Knoxville at about 7pm that evening.  I told Ellie that it was statistically possible that if we left at 7am and took only necessary breaks, we might be able to catch them.  If not, no worries but lets try....and try we did.
            Their gig was at the historic Candoro Marble works and was a very DIY, local, pot-luck, historic-preservation, progressive-Tennesseans-trying-to-make-a-difference kind of event.
We got there about ten after 7, paid the tiny cover, got ourselves a few complimentary fans and hung by the picnic tables to check them out.  They were fantastic of course despite the high 80s temperature and 70 plus percent humidity.  It was downright tropical.  It was also a potluck which I didn't know.  We dug about 7 or 8 tunes until their set break and then, because it was totally gross out and because we'd been on the road for 12 hours and because we had traveled 646 miles, we retreated to our hotel by the University.  It was a serviceable hotel and the dinner at the bar was sadly forgettable.  We did sleep well that night!

Tuba Skinny on the road

Day 2 Saturday 22 July 2016

            Friday dawned hot and sticky again but to our delight, we discovered a french crepe cafe not far from the hotel!  It was called the French Market Creperie and it was exactly what we needed!  Great breakfast crepes and strong coffee, fresh squeezed juice and Parisian decor.  My Francophile daughter was delighted!
            It was only about an hour and a half to Chattanooga so we boogied on down the road and checked into the Embassy Suites on the edge of town.  It was actually a very large, upscale and pretty nice hotel.  This is where the reunion would be.
            Needing lunch, we asked the desk man for a recommendation downtown and were directed to a very nice diner, right on the river.  It was the Blue Plate and it was perfect.  Upscale, modern diner food with a southern twist and a nice selection of local brews.  You could see the river right out the window and across the lawn.  Again, perfect....The Blue Plate is across the street from the very large, very modern and very popular Tennessee Aquarium.  We didn't go in this time but we did explore a bit and discovered a stepped, manmade waterfall on the far side.  Kids from a local day camp were frolicking in the water, (it was still hot) and in the wading pool at the bottom of the stairs.  It was a beautiful detail and an unexpected delight.  Ellie shed her shoes and waded some.

The view from the Blue Plate, that'd be the mighty Mississippi by the way...

Ellie cools off...

            Later that afternoon, we discovered several of our family members had arrived and were availing them selves of the free happy hour in the large room adjacent to the main lobby.  Hugs all around and lots and lots of catching up.  Our Nashville relations arrived later and there was more catching up and hugging and laughing and drinking.  I can't even begin the put into words my delight at being around my kinfolk.  So, so great....
            That evening, Kathy's family and Ellie and I walked across the parking lot to the Pizza place, Mellow Mushroom.  It was decent but strangely figured in a senior moment I had already had but of which I was not aware just yet.  I had left my sunglasses on the table in the lounge area in the hotel the night before but became convinced I had left them at the pizza joint.  After some gnashing of teeth and rending of virtual garments, on our last morning I thought to ask the front desk and lo and behold, sunglasses.
            When I first mentioned to Ellie that I'd be taking her the the reunion on Chattanooga, the first question her precocious mind came up with was, "can we visit the battlefield?"  Well, of course I was going to suggest it but she had just studied it in her American Civil War unit in 8th grade social studies.  So, Saturday morning, we braved the crowds at the elaborate and expansive breakfast buffet, applied sunblock and bug spray and drove over the the Chickamauga National Battlefield Park.
We tried to meet up with my Sister and eventually did at the visitor center.  I wished the Park Service employees Happy Birthday, we watched the film, downloaded the audio guide app for our phone (super cool!), then headed out on the park road for the phone-guide directed auto and foot tour.
It was extremely well done and thought out and very, very thorough.  The battlefield itself is remarkable not just for the cataclysmic events of September 1863, but also because it is the least-changed landscape of any US battlefield park.  The hallowed ground was never settled, farmed or developed in the nearly 153 years since the conflagration.
            On the way back, we ascended Lookout Mountain and dodged a hyper-local rains storm for the amazing view.  One has to pay to really see the view or ride the incline.  Also, Rock City was on the way down and again, a fairly steep admission price but a classic Southern tourist destination.  I remember seeing the billboards as a kid all up and down the highway when we sojourned to Jonesboro, Georgia to visit Grandpa when I was a kid.
            We met with Kathy, Daniel and Kylie back at the Blue Plate for yet another tasty, tasty meal and then headed back to the Hotel.  Once there, a short rest and change of clothes and refresh and then to was time for the classic Clanton Saturday night gathering.
            Once again, hugs, laughs and stories all around, this time with pizza!  We were regaled with amazing tales from my Grandpa, his brothers Bruce and Don and their various children, grandchildren and even great-grandchildren, (one of whom was of course Ellie!).  It was again, beautiful, meaningful and moving to me.  My Mom endeavored to take us to this reunion as many years as time and money and schedules would allow and I am trying very hard to keep this tradition alive and hopefully, germinate an interest in my own daughter.

On LookoutMountain

A part of the Battlefield

Generations, generations....

Ellie atop a Chickamauga Tower Monument

Day 3 23 Sunday 23 July 2016

            We were up and off to see my lovely wife Kim and her Aunt Marcia in Newnan, Georgia this hot Sunday.  Kim had flown down to Atlanta the day before to have some visiting time with Aunt Marcia.  Her trip was not without it's color either.  Her brother Dave went with her to surprise Marcia, however, that was the second and most disruptive day of the famous Southwest Airlines flight cancellation debacle over the summer.  After dithering about what to do for a brief moment, Kim realized that, in fact, they were at an airport.  "They have planes at airports; I'll bet we can find one to Atlanta."  Off she went and found a deserted Delta counter with a lone attendant.  She sidled up, asked about the next flight to Atlanta, found out it was soon and booked two tickets on the spot.  By the time she had done those easy few things, there was a line stretching behind her.  She and Dave retrieved their bags from Southwest and boarded the Delta flight only an hour or so after their originally scheduled flight.  Huzzah for my quick-thinking super-wife!
            After again braving the buffet, we headed downtown one more time.  This time, we hit the hilarious and delicious MoonPie General Store.  Now, of course, I grew up on MoonPies.  Mom would occasionally pack one in my lunch when I was a kid and certainly they were a staple treat on road trips.  At various times during the years in which I've lived amongst my Yankee brethren, they've been brought to me and I've even seen them from time to time in out-of-the-way stores up North here.  I introduced them to Ellie when she was a wee lass and she has loved them (who doesn't?) ever since.  We spent a fun half hour there, loaded up on MoonPies and T-shirts and got us a couple of RC Colas (still my favorite) and headed Southeast.

The classic!

            Along our 146 mile, 2 hour trip was the famous Tunnel Hill site.  This was the tunnel through which the Great Locomotive Chase took place in 1862 during the Civil War.  It was right off the highway so we stopped to try to see it.  Again, it was a Sunday morning and everyone was at one of the 5 churches we saw between the interstate and the site.  Also, it's not a State or National Historic site and is privately owned and operated, so, no access without an entrance fee.  No one around so we could only snap pictures from a distance.  It's an amazing story from that horrible conflict.  As we were leaving, a Southern freight whipped pass on the newer tracks and larger tunnel about 10 feet north of the historic Western and Atlantic tracks we had just seen.
            We arrived at Newnan about 1pm and it was great to see Kim and of course Aunt Marica!  This was Ellie's first time meeting her and they got along like peas and carrots right off the bat.  Despite the physical challenges of being an octogenarian, she still is a wonderful visit and conversationalist, full of laughs and smiles and amazing stories.  It was lovely to spend some time with her.  Ellie and Kim visited Marcia's favorite place to buy lotto cards and Ellie actually won 50$ her first time with a scratch off!  Wow, beginner's luck!
            That evening we went down the road to a Mexican restaurant Marica loves and to which Kim has gone with her for many years; La Perilla  It was delicious as always.  This particular trip to La Parilla was punctuated by the Pokemon Go phenomenon.  Ellie and to a smaller degree, Kim were delighted and taken with game and a lot of the conversation happened to be about that.

The storied tunnel

A modern freight and modern tunnel

         

Day 4 Monday 24 July 2016

            We awoke, and made for the Waffle House close by.  Our visit was meant solely as a cultural waypoint for my Yankee daughter.  It had been many, many moons since Kim or I had set foot in one and even then, it was not 930am on a Monday (more likely 230am after a gig).  Ellie had waffles (they have little logos on them!)....It was as expected.  You know what I mean, red pickup in the parking lot and all.
            After breakfast, we headed over to Marica's to say our goodbyes and then headed east.  Across that day, we essentially traversed the entire State of South Carolina, Southwest to Northeast.  It was hot and beautiful and got flatter as we neared the lowlands.  Along the way, we paused at a rest stop.  I am quite certain none of the three of us had ever been on that stretch of Interstate 20 before.
            About dinner time, we found ourselves on the outskirts of Columbia S.C. and made our way past the University to the fabled Five Points area.  Monday night, so no issue parking and after some Yelp starts and stops, we found ourselves at Publico Kitchen and Tap.  Highly recommended! Taco Monday!  Who knew?  Fantastic tacos, craft beer and giant Jenga at all the tables!  We certainly refreshed ourselves for the rest of our drive that evening.
            I wasn't sure how far we could get that night but Kim and I were determined to show Ellie that great monolith of Interstate 95 in South Carolina, the east coast's Wall Drug:  South of the Border.
We actually made it there just before they closed for the evening.  Just enough time to snap some pictures, buy some killer fireworks, hit the latrine, get gas and peruse the souvenir shops.  The lights were amazing and the neon was ubiquitous.  Now, the last time I was there was about 1986 or so.  It has expanded quite a bit in 30 years and is several acres of stores, motels, putt-putt, arcades etc etc etc.  I wouldn't be surprised if the Astronauts on the ISS could make out the lights at night.  It was kitsch on an industrial scale.  Still, I'm glad we saw it and I was especially glad Ellie got to experience it.
            After gassing up, we headed North right across the border to a decent hotel near the highway in Lumberton.  Interestingly, the crossroads of Interstates 95 and 74 pass right by that hotel in Lumberton and a few short weeks after this trip, Kim and I would be heading West to East on Interstate 74 and pass right by the highway hotel again.  Again, it was a decent stay and we slept well.

Ellie's first trip to the WH!

Generations, well-met....

Rest Area 62

S.O.B

The be-sttickered giant spark plug

Day 5 Tuesday 25 July 2016

            We were up and out at a reasonable time and hoping to make it home before bedtime.  We had about 514 miles to go.  We booked it up 95 and made it to our favorite restaurant in Richmond, Virginia; Kuba Kuba.  It is, without a doubt, the best Cuban restaurant at which I've ever eaten,  Just about ever time we head South to see my family in North Carolina, we try to time it so we can stop there and have a meal.  We've probably been there 5 or 6 times already, Just Kim and I and with both Keely and Ellie multiple times.  It's safe to say I think it's their favorite restaurant i Richmond too!  This particular trip there was as amazing as all the rest.  The Arroz con Pollo and Paella are the best I've ever had and their "dessert" coffee' are amazing, sweet, confections of caffeinated goodness.  One hundred stars to Kuba Kuba!
           We made it to Baltimore by dinnertime and took a break and walked around that beautiful port area.  We had milkshakes and a nice walk. (with more Pokemon Go of course!)  About 730pm, we headed North again and made it to Benezet street about 930pm.

It was a beautiful trip, filled with family, great food, great times and interesting historical and cultural gleanings.  We were all exhausted and happy and I for one, am eternally pleased we did it!

It was also a 1775 mile drive for me.  Good thing I love being on the road!

Kuba Kuba om nom nom!

The Baltimore Hard Rock Cafe

1775 miles